The Big Easy

Our entry into New Orleans was greeted by a rainbow in the sky. Knowing that Tropical Storm Karen was looming somewhere in the Gulf, I took that as a good sign. As we came closer to the city, I was struck by the skyline, by the number of tall buildings and by the very corporate presence along its avenues. Perhaps I was naive in thinking that the Big Easy would be more low-keyed. However, it did not take long to find the charm and intrigue that is this city.

We have been to Broadway in Nashville, Beale Street in Memphis, 6th Street in Austin, and now Bourbon Street in New Orleans. They all resonate with great music and each lays claim to an edgy vibe. Their streets are filled with people celebrating (Celebrating may be an understatement for many.)  If a vote were taken, I would give Bourbon Street first place for revelry. Unlike Beale Street, Bourbon has almost no visible police presence and the venues are a lot racier. Some friends and family members kept texting us to watch our belongings, to be careful, to stay safe. I started to feel like the college freshman being warned of the dangers of the big bad world. (I must confess that it is a good idea to be cautious on Bourbon Street.)

Happy to report that we survived Bourbon Street. In fact, on that very street, we had a fabulous dinner at Red Fish - where Terry claims he had the best crab cake he ever ate. We heard some terrific music at Musical Legends Park. Returning the following night (yes, we did return) we stopped into Maison Bourbon, one of the oldest jazz venues, and once again heard some fabulous music.

Our Guide Randy

Wanting to see as much of New Orleans as we could, we took a Hop On/Hop Off tour - directed by our colorful guide, Randy. Randy was born and raised in New Orleans and gave us an insider's view of his city. He taught us phrases used to hide a verbal slight. As in, "She is dressed all wrong, bless her heart; she can't help it." He mentioned that New Orleanians do not have a Southern Accent, but sound something like New Yorkers. Randy spoke of the little-known influence that German settlers had on New Orleans. He instructed us on the difference between Creole and Cajun. Creoles are the descendants of the original colonial settlers.Cajuns are the descendants of those French speaking refugees who were resettled by the British from Acadia. Randy had so much information to impart, I was afraid there would be a quiz at the end of the tour.

St. Louis Cathedral

We, of course, spent time in the rest of the French Quarter: visited St. Louis Cathedral (oldest cathedral in North America); strolled among the sidewalk artists (bought some gyclees); had beignets and cafe au lait; and admired the rows of filigree-enhanced homes. Unfortunately, our beignets were not from Cafe du Monde. (It was 90 degrees and the line was a mile long.) I also missed a Banana Foster and a Muffaletta - so little time - next trip.

We capped off our New Orleans experience by following a suggestion from a local shop keeper about a place for dinner with one night left: Muriel's. And what great advice it was. The meal was wonderful, the atmosphere was lovely and the service was very good (even though Carey, our server was a bit of a diva). It was the perfect choice to close out our trip to the Crescent City.

Louisiana - Bridges and Bayous

Traveling from Texas to Louisiana introduced us to bayous. Merriam-Webster Online defines bayou as: "an area of water in the southern U.S. in which the water moves very slowly and is filled with many plants". Terry insisted on calling them "swamps." He even did so to the lovely ladies at the Iberville Visitor Center who politely did not take offense, but gave us a topography lesson about the Atchafalaya  Basin and the bayous of Louisiana.(To be perfectly honest, some Louisiana reference material does use the "s" word to describe the bayou as well.) 

The way you cross the Atchafalaya Basin is over the Atchafalaya Basin Bridge which carries Interstate 10 over its length. Now, this is not any ordinary old bridge. It consists of two parallel bridges that have a length of over 18 miles, making it the fourteenth longest bridge in the world. It is an engineering phenomenon. The roadway of the bridge is very high; in fact, we rode on a surface that is in line with the tops of trees! Between the two parallel bridges carrying traffic in opposite directions is the water of the basin. For those who cannot picture it, I found  this photo online to show what it looks like, since I could not get a camera angle to get the full effect - which would be from below.

Atchafalaya Basin Bridge - can we say "Yikes!"? (photo from www.gypsynester.com)

The mighty, muddy Mississippi crosses through this state where you can find many, many lakes, basins, marshes and rivers. You don't have to travel far to encounter one. So, we found leaving the state as much a water story as entering. Lake Pontchartrain covers 630 square miles and we had to cross it on the Pontchartrain Causeway - another parallel set of bridges, this time over 24 miles long, making it the longest bridge over water in the world. If I thought Atchafalaya was a challenge, this was going to be an ever bigger test of will. When I saw the approaching span, no lie, I was more than grateful that I was the passenger and that T was the driver. He handled it like a pro. I think I may have frozen; I just kept looking ahead and praying. No trees on either side this time, only wide open water. I soon determined that the GW Bridge is a walk (or drive) in the park. Onward!

My photos of Lake Pontchartrain and the Causeway as we were driving. (Remember, I was the passenger.)

Texas Footnotes

Some thoughts upon leaving Texas after ten days:

• Texas is big, bold and diverse. Wichita Falls and Galveston could not be more different and then there is everything in between.

• There is a slower pace in their socializing, but Texans drive very FAST.

• In some areas of Texas the highway system is like interconnecting roller coasters - not for the faint of heart.

• There is no "Texan" accent - it's as diverse as its population. But they do all say "y'all" and use "sir" and ma'am" when addressing you. (And that is true all over the South.)

• There is a large German influence in Texas. I had no idea. Apparently, by the mid-nineteenth century they constituted the largest ethnic European group in Texas. They rank third after Hispanics as an ethnic group. Towns with names like Bergheim, Boerne, Fredricksburg, Gruene, New Braunfels, Schulenburg all give evidence of their German settlers. (We visited New Braunfels and had the best pastries in Naegelin's German Bakery.)

• I loved our time in Texas and again am grateful that Frankie & Jess's wedding brought us there.

Tall Texas Highways

Naegelin's Bakery, New Braunfels - Oldest Bakery in Texas - 1868!

I still hear your sea winds blowing...Oh, Galveston...

A room overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, a walk along the beach, a dinner at sunset on the upper deck of a place called Fish Tales - this was our introduction to Galveston Island. Galveston is unique in that it is part southern, part western and unlike most of the rest of Texas. When a city survives being burned by one of its early European settlers, the pirate John Lafitte; devastating hurricanes (They actually raised the level of the city after the 1900 storm.); and years of economic downturn, it emerges stronger when committed to recovery and re-discovery. That is Galveston. 

Not the ferry!

The ferry!

I was surprised at the size of the island - 32 miles long and 2 1/2 miles wide. Apparently, the residents are fairly self-sufficient and don't see much need to go to the mainland, happy with being just where they are.  But we had to leave the island to continue our fall adventure and we found a relaxing and scenic way to do it...the ferry to Port Bolivar. These ferries run every 20- 30 minutes, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. We did have to stop and be inspected for security. I guess we looked harmless and escaped having to remove the contents of our car which must have appeared to contain all our worldly possessions. And, we never had to take off our shoes. We then boarded the ferry and decided that it is the most pleasant way to make the 2.7 mile trip across Galveston Bay. We did it in about 18 minutes. And guess what - it is free!

We were greeted at Port Bolivar by a group of Pelicans perched on the dock. (Nice touch) The ride through Bolivar Peninsular was along a two-lane highway traversing quiet beach towns, some farms and the occasional field with oil pumps. Prominent were the homes, everyone elevated on stilts - some two stories high - sure evidence of flood preparedness. The drive was a slower pace than the interstate and was such a welcomed change, especially for the chief driver - Terry.

And so we were on our way to New Orleans - Laissez les bons temps rouler!

San Antonio

Picture a river walk below street level, lined with cypress trees, lush with plant life, adorned with arched bridges and filled with romance. Imagine river cruisers carrying happy passengers along this waterway whose walkways link shops, restaurants and cafes. Well, this is San Antonio, the twelfth stop on our Fall Adventure - and by far, one of the most enchanting spots we have visited. It is truly a blend of cultures. As mentioned in the Visit San Antonio website, "Native Americans, Colonial Spain, the Canary Islands, Old Mexico, Germans, the Wild West, and the Deep South cross paths in San Antonio." Everywhere we went we saw evidence of all that richness. 

Mission San Juan

Cathedral of San Fernando

Once again, so much to take in and with just three days to do it in. Setting priorities is important when you are limited by time. When the heat hovers around 95, those priorities and any itinerary has to be flexible. Add to that a government shut-down affecting the National Park System. So, be prepared to be unable to visit certain destinations and to share that disappointment with scores of other tourists who express their displeasure, if not their politics.One of the plans our party of four had made was to see all four of the missions on the Mission Trail. Unfortunately, we could not enter them because of the previously mentioned government shutdown. We were relegated to photographing the exterior as close as we could get.  However, at one of the missions, someone left a chapel door open and we were able to get a look inside(sneak in, that is); it was truly beautiful. Even with limited access, I learned what a vital role these missions played in the life of the early settlements in Texas and what place the Catholic church played in it. The remnants of that influence exist even to this day. Note the Cathedral of San Fernando, seat of a diocese with 139 parishes.

We were able to tour The Alamo, originally known as Mission San Antonio De Valero. (It is not part of the National Park System.) What an experience - to be standing in that spot where part of the Texas Rebellion took place and where, in the last siege,  the defenders of the Alamo were slaughtered. I recall growing up reading about the West and loving Western movies - hearing the phrase, "Remember the Alamo". Well, now I have witnessed, first-hand, how the San Antonions do remember and have such a deep reverence for those brave soldiers who included Tejanos and Anglo-Texians as well as men from many states and Europe. (There was even one soldier from Connecticut -56 year-old Gordon Jennings.) 

On the more mundane gastronomic side, San Antonio has such a plethora of dining choices. Our restaurant experiences included everything from the exquisite Biga to the Iron Cactus on the River Walk, to great pizza at Paisano's to the tried and true at the Hard Rock. We sipped drinks at the Esquire, the longest wooden bar in Texas, went to Waxy O'Connor's for an Irish Coffee (San Antonio isn't all Tex-Mex.) and enjoyed a brew at the Faust Hotel in nearby New Braunfels. Life is good. (People seem to say that as a punctuation to a positive experience. Ergo...)  

In the realm of the totally unexpected and a truly OMG moment: having breakfast at our hotel and a tap on the shoulder. I look up and see before me a dear friend, Tina, whom I have not seen in almost five years! As we are hugging hello (in complete surprise) her husband Dick joined the greetings. It wasn't long ago that I said to Terry we should get together with Dick & Tina; it's been too long. Never thought it would be in San Antonio, Texas. The term "small world" comes to mind.

Before leaving San Antonio, we accompanied my brother-in-law Frank to Lackland Air Force Base; his last time there was in the late 60's during his training as an airman. This was a nostalgic trip for him and we were glad to be part of it. Despite the fact that he could only get as far as the front gate, he was a man filled with emotion, reflecting on that time prior to his deployment to Vietnam.

Our final stop on the way out of town was to Penners, a wonderful clothing store in existence since 1916. Assisted by David, a salesman there for 50 years, (Who works anywhere for 50 years these days?) Terry received a mini wardrobe makeover. He was even willing to give up wearing his American Pickers T-shirt! I couldn't resist a purchase myself, who could at this store? The place is a throwback to an era when service and style went hand-in-hand. And...they have a website to be able to order online!

We left San Antonio happy to have spent time in this vibrant city. Gracias. Adios. 

Keep Austin Weird

The Elephant Room

Congress Street

The city of Austin has undergone a metamorphosis. For years it has been known as the Live Music Capital of the World. Music abounds here - live and colorful. With that comes a free and easy ambiance permeating the city. In recent years, business has boomed in Austin and corporate creep has begun. Some are concerned that something is being lost.

The saying "Keep Austin Weird" is used among Austinites. It can be seen and heard everywhere - t-shirts, bumper stickers, coffee mugs, etc. It is used to reflect the the desire of many to preserve and protect the fiercely independent, liberal and eclectic vibe that the "Old Austin" is known for. This is an effort to promote the small business atmosphere which is sometimes threatened by the incursion of the large corporations that have invaded so many southern cities. Whether it is art, music, history, food, Austin has it all. We had a chance to get just a taste of it. South Congress Cafe for brunch, the prestigious Driskill Hotel for an afternoon cocktail, Shady Grove for home cooking, The Elephant Room for jazz, 6th Street for the Pecan Festival. So much Austin, so little time.

Austin - the CIty

The Haggerty family wedding brought us to Austin; while there, we were introduced to this most interesting capital city. It is a city of terrific music, great art, good food, mixed cultures, an awareness of the environment, and a great pride in being Texan. In its politics, it is known as a blue dot in a red state. We took the opportunity to explore each of these aspects of Austin and more. You can't help being drawn into this city with so much to offer.

Our hotel was situated right on the edge of Lady Bird Lake which provided a great trail to walk or bike and view the kayakers and skullers sailing by. During our walk we noticed the strings of small flags that hung all around the park emblazoned with a bare tree and the word "Thirst". We learned that this was the call for conservation as a result of the drought suffered throughout the region; the slogan appears everywhere. Another phenomenon that we missed seeing was the emergence at dusk of the bats from the underside of the Congress Avenue Bridges. Crowds gather in the evening to witness this event. Not quite the same as the March of the Ducks at the Peabody in Memphis, but a more natural phenomenon. Next time.   

In recent years Austin has made a concerted effort to display more completely its State's history and its devotion to art and culture. So, despite the intense heat and humidity, we managed to visit some of the best examples of this effort. The Blanton Museum of Art and  The Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum (both connected to the University of Texas) were two. In addition to the challenge of the high temperatures, navigating through the campus filled with college students coming and going to "wherever" proved to be a formidable task. I assume it was because they were focused on their studies and not on the traffic invading their territory. The art in the Blanton is phenomenal. The walk through the history of Texas at the Bullock is absolutely gripping. It explains so much of this fiercely independent state. I had to recall the fact that this land once belonged to Mexico, fought for its independence and became a Republic in its own right. Nine years later, it joined the American Union and became part of the United States. That Texan singularity still exists today.

Another stop was the Texas State Cemetery. Now you may not think of it as a destination on vacation, but this spot is a beautiful, peaceful and contemplative place holding the remains or memorials of notable Texans - everyone from Confederate veterans, to General Albert Sydney Johnston, to.Governor Ann Richards, to Coach Tom Landry. It is absolutely pristine. The visitor center at the cemetery also contains a succinct history of the state from its beginnings. The pride with which Debbie, the docent, spoke of Austin and the Cemetery shone through her gracious conversation with us. As with so many people we encountered, she took the time to speak to us, to not only share her knowledge, but to ask our stories as well. 

This piece certainly does not explain all we discovered in Austin. And it is now way past midnight. So - to be continued...