Wichita Falls

It was late afternoon on September 24, 2013 when we arrived in Wichita Falls, Texas. I have not been back here since 1945! World War II and the US Army Air Corps brought my parents, Ted and Evelyn Heyer, from Brooklyn, NY to Sheppard Field Air Force Base in 1942. They had been married 10 years and had no children. They settled into a home off- base at 1625 Elizabeth Avenue and to a military way of life, seemingly immersing themselves into this community.Ted was an officer; his job was training and intelligence in the Air Corps, as it was known then. Much to his disappointment, however, he was never deployed overseas; he was considered too old at the time - 34 to be exact. Sometime during their stay, my mother found out that she was pregnant They always told me how thrilled they were to be having a child after 11 years of marriage. (I've always chosen to believe that was true.) So, very early in the morning on the 24th of December, 1943, I was born at the base hospital. Unfortunately for my mother the doctor never appeared and the nurse delivered me. (May not have been the most pleasant experience for a woman in 1943.)

Being an officer, my father enjoyed some privileges not available to enlisted men. I had a nurse, Mama Barner, who helped my mother care for me. And my parents belonged to the Wichita Falls Country Club where they enjoyed access to golf, tennis and the pool. The pool was probably a welcome relief to what they had described to me as times of oppressive heat, causing people to sleep on cots in their backyards. No air-conditioning back then!

Well, here I am approaching 70 and returning to a place of which have no recollection, having left at the age of two, and only know from stories told to me by my parents and pictures in an album. I had found that the house on Elizabeth still existed by searching Google Maps.(Cheers to technology!) So that was our first destination - to find the house. It was easy, again using the blessings of GPS. There it was, in front of me, the small stucco bungalow home that I had recalled only in photographs. It was no longer painted white and the neighborhood had obviously taken a turn for the worse. But there it was- the place to where my parents brought their new baby home, the place where my father returned when not on base.

From Elizabeth Avenue, we drove to the Wichita Falls Country Club to ask if they had a public dining room.  I had called on my cell phone to place that inquiry. They did not. So, I told my story about being born there and my parents living there during the war and enjoying the activities of the Country Club. And this led to an exception being made and an invitation to dine there later that evening. At 7:30 Terry and I ate at the renovated version of the Wichita Falls Country Club. We received a warm welcome from Ashley and Keith who told us that the club would be celebrating its hundredth anniversary next year. They were most interested in the copy of the photo I had of the club back in 1942. I promised to look for any more memorabilia at home and send copies.



The last place I wanted to see was the Air Force base which is now known simply as Sheppard AFB. Unfortunately, we could not get on base without a military ID or being related to someone on base. So I had to satisfy myself with a drive-by and a photograph of the entrance.

Later, when I get home, I will find some of the photos I have of this Texas town where I lived and post them on the blog for comparison. For now - having a chance to return to Wichita Falls after so many, many years gives me pause to reflect. Life would have been much different if my parents hadn't gone back to Brooklyn and raised me in Texas. Makes me stop & think of the roads not taken.

Crossing Texas

Playing catch up...We have done a lot of traveling since Memphis...driving through Arkansas and laying over in Texarkana on our way to Wichita Falls. The trip brought us from the hills of Kentucky to long stretches of  low flat land as far as the eye can see. Farms, ranches, lots of trucks hauling their loads. And the speed limit - 70 - 75 mph on the Interstate and even on two lane highways - people still passing. Yikes! Another Texas driving experience we were introduced to was the Texas Turnaround - a unique way to navigate around the service roads for local travel & avoiding getting on the highway. Intimidating at first, but they make sense - unless you just go around in circles, big circles..Speaking of highways & interstates, as with everything in Texas, they're BIG! And the overpasses are as tall as skyscrapers.

A dinner stop in Texarkana introduced us to our server Keith O'Shaughnessy. He noticed Terry's Red Sox hat & told us he was originally from Boston. Thus began an evening's discussion of Boston sports. Terry was a happy man. However, Terry had to share the fact that his football team  was still the NY Giants, never forgiving the Patriots for reneging on a plan to move to Hartford. But he's not bitter...right!

As we traveled across northern Texas, we saw references to towns that borrowed names somewhat familiar to us - New Boston, Chicago and Little Detroit, and, not to forget Paris, home of Campbell Soup Supply.

What we took in as well was the huge expanse of the landscape and the gorgeous open sky.

Graceland

Graceland

Elvis's Living Room

Meditation Garden

How can you leave Memphis and not visit Graceland? That's what we said. Off to Elvis's mansion and the surrounding "exhibits". I liked Elvis as a teenager, and actually saw him perform live in Vegas on his comeback tour in 1969. But Terry and I cannot be counted among those that are rabid fans - and there were thousands visiting Graceland today. Case in point: the couple we met at breakfast, Janet and Raymond, from Alberta. She turned 50 a week ago and a visit to Graceland was on her bucket list. So, there were lines to get on the buses at the visitor center to ride to the mansion. Lines to go through the home which is decorated in what you may expect to be late 60's - early 70's kitsch. In the Jungle Room there is shag rug on the floor and the ceiling! I found little time to stop and take in any of the items in the home since there were dozens of people behind me waiting their turn to get a peek at the King's rooms. We bought the Platinum Tickets, giving us access to the mansion, his planes and his extensive car collection as well as several other exhibits (which we passed on since we were moving on to Texas). The property includes restaurants, gift shops (many, many gift shops) where you can buy anything Elvis - clothing, items for the home, kid stuff, mugs, magnets, to name a few. There is even lodging at the Heartbreak Hotel.The Meditation Garden is supposed to be a place for reflection and holds the graves of his parents, his grandmother and himself.

At the entrance to the Car Museum

I found the history of Elvis's personal story, his talent, his musical achievements and his devotion to his daughter the most compelling part of the tour. To see it all in its authentic form was quite something. It would have taken a good day, at least,  to absorb it all - if you could manage the crowds. Priscilla Presley left no stone unturned in developing this tribute to Elvis and establishing a very profitable enterprise. It has, by the way, been named a National Historic Landmark.

 So - I've been to Graceland. 

Sunday - Ducks, Rock, River and Plan B

Peabody Ducks

Duck Master

Following a tip we received from a couple in Nashville, we decided to check out the apparently famous Duck March at the Peabody Hotel - led by a Duck Master, no less. This tradition dating back to the 1930's has five ducks who are housed on the roof of the hotel come down the elevator everyday at 11:00 a.m. and march to great fanfare along a red carpet into the fountain in the grand lobby of the hotel. At 5:00 p.m. they make the return trip. Crowds (sometimes numbering close to a hundred) gather in the lobby to witness this event. So here we sat (getting there an hour early!) and sharing a ring-side table with a really nice couple from Australia, Bev and Brian. Incredible what will capture our imagination - and cheers to the hotel for capitalizing on this event which started as a prank by a  General Manager some 80 years ago.

Sun Studio

Lana, our guide

Million Dollar Quartet

Since Memphis is steeped in music history, we took a trip to Sun Studio where Sam Phillips founded what is known as the "Birthplace of Rock & Roll". Small place, but made big to the tour group by our energetic guide Lana (from British Columbia), a musician and songwriter in her own right. So many of the R & R greats recorded there and many still do. Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Roscoe Gordon. I myself skipped the opportunity to do a recording session as part of the tour. The listening public may not be ready for that. But please note the really cool hat I picked up at Lansky's at The Peabody! One of the wise souvenir purchases and totally Memphis!

River Walk

The Mississippi and Bridge to Arkansas

Our Sunday afternoon brought us down to the River, the Mississippi, that is. I wanted to be sure to get up close and personal with this great waterway. A trip to the peninsula known as Mud Island and its River Park provided just such an opportunity. One of the features of the park is a scale model of the Lower Mississippi River flowing from its confluence with the Ohio River at  Cairo, Illinois 954 miles south to the Gulf of Mexico. Such a great experience capturing the feel of this mighty river, which happened to be quiet that day- muddy, but quiet. The park seems to need some tending to - its upkeep leaves something to be desired. But it still offers a pleasant and comfortable way to take in the river. 

You know when you have an agenda in your mind and then reality gets in the way. Well that is how our Sunday ended. Plan A - to take the trolley to dine at Rendezvous, famous ribs place. Reality - trolley stops running at 6:15 on Sunday and the restaurant closes after lunch! On to Plan B. Getting late, tired, hungry and not sure of the area, we head back to the Peabody (now a known quantity) to have dinner. Reality Part II - Peabody turns out to be about three times the cost of the rib dinner in Plan A. I guess we learned something from that. But the bread sticks were really good - so was the Cabernet. A horse-drawn carriage ride back to the hotel capped off the evening of a really good day.

Memphis Vibe

Nashville is called the Music City, but Memphis is immersed in music as well. It celebrates its ties to Rock, Soul and the Blues. And the place that this is most evident is on the famous, or infamous Beale Street. We took a Trolley there Saturday evening. And I might add, the whole trolley thing is a great way to get around downtown Memphis. Well, getting back to Beale Street - even though I had heard about the place, I was still taken by surprise. The length of about 2-3 blocks is barricaded off with an obvious police presence - outwardly laid back, but keeping a watchful eye. This is one huge block party with hundreds, maybe thousands of people all ready for a good time. Lining the streets are restaurants, bars, clubs, dancing, food and drink. And when I say drink, that is an understatement - alcohol-to-go! Although we are known as big party people at Laurel Ridge (Active Adult Community), we decided to choose one of the more sedate (by comparison) spots for dinner. Kings Palace proved to be a good choice. The food was good, the crowd lively, and the singer/guitar player (David Bowan) was fabulous. I'm not sure that I could hang out there every weekend. Well, let's just say that was probably my one and only journey down Beale Street. But I must say it was FUN.

Civil Rights

Entering Memphis we stopped at the National Civil Rights Museum, adjacent to the Lorraine Motel, the site of the assassination of the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Standing outside the building and looking up to the balcony on the second floor, you cannot miss the site of the killing. A wreath of flowers adorns the railing outside room 306 - the very spot that Reverend King was killed. It was chilling to recall those events and all that had occurred that year - 1968. We toured the museum's exhibits which chronicle the entire Civil Rights Movement. During this walk-through history, you learn the events leading up to Dr. King's presence at the motel that day. You also learn the history of James Earl Ray. What is most poignant is getting to stand in the spot from which he fired the rifle to kill MLK. It seemed all too real - recalling that tragic day 45 years ago. The museum also honors those who fought and, in too many cases, died for the cause of civil rights. It celebrates the achievements made in the cause, but points to the fact that there is still more to be done. And that is up to each of us.

Souvenirs - a dilemma.

Minnie Pearl Hat Magnet

Did you ever notice when you are on vacation you have this urge to collect memorabilia? You want to bring home items that will always remind you of this time & place - that sparkly T-shirt from Opryland with the face of Dolly Parton on the front and the cast of Hee Haw on the back. Or the hat from Punxsutawney in the shape of a groundhog. But then you come to your senses (you hope) and picture yourself back home in Connecticut donning these creations at your monthly potluck supper. So, I escaped our trip so far with only one souvenir garment - a very tasteful (in my opinion) and attractive top from Churchill Downs - and no, there is no likeness of Seattle Slew anywhere on it. Terrence, on the other hand, has a stash of souvenirs, including a Johnny Cash concert poster (going-I'm not sure where), a T-shirt from Antiques Archaeology (American Pickers) (which he wears with a collector's pride) and three refrigerator magnets depicting Nashville - a banjo, a Minnie Pearl hat and a picture of the Ryman Auditorium. Problem is - our refrigerator is not magnetized. Oh well - off to Memphis. There just might be an Elvis jacket that would look really good.

Nashville Part 2

Random thoughts on the Nashville experience...

• People seem to go out of their way to engage and be friendly.
• The Army Nurse from California here for a conference - along with 1200 other nurses - attending the Grand Ole Opry.
• The family from northern New Jersey here for a family wedding, whose sister lives in Austin (one of our destinations) and taking in American Pickers.
• On the Trolley, the Rode Island couple from Lincoln who share a love for Newport.

• A common question from strangers sharing a line, a trolley, or occupying the table next to yours is where are you from? And they really want to know your story. 

• Some characters we encountered:
• The bellman, a native of Philly who came to Nashville and retired from the Police Department. He spent 10 minutes giving us tips on navigating our way to the Grand Ole Opry by car and how to avoid extra costs doing so. 
• Sitting next to me at the Grand Ole Opry - Jackie & Bob Weldon from Atlanta, married 53 years and on a trip with their church group. She described herself as a Southern Belle.

As you walk the streets of downtown Nashville, there are countless bars, clubs, honky tonks, any manner of music venues, and then there are the concert halls and convention centers. And the musicians - everywhere. I was struck by the scale of the disparity among them. For two days the streets around the Bridgestone Arena were lined with dozens of touring buses - Taylor Swift was in town performing for two nights. In that same area, in much smaller venues seasoned acts display incredible talent to the delight of appreciative audiences. Bands, groups, soloists perform their music with energy and excitement. Then there are the street performers - playing on the sidewalks right outside these clubs and right down the street from Taylor Swift.  Even among them, there is a distinction. Some are bright, energetic and obviously talented. Then there are those who are barely in touch, homeless perhaps. What a sight to take in - all in the span of 10 blocks - from a super star to a broken dreamer & everything in between. 

Nashville

Let me summarize today, well now it's yesterday - Friday, September 20th - in Nashville. 

We toured the city using the Hop On/Off Trolley which allowed us to get an accelerated introduction to this capital city. We did hop off at the Ryman Auditorium. Our visit gave us a glimpse into the history of this former home of the Grand Ole Opry, noting that it also served as a venue for entertainment since the late 19th century and that it boasts acoustics only surpassed by the Morman Tabernacle - even surpassing Carnegie Hall. Who knew?

Now many people would first associate Nashville with music - which is true - but our Trolley guide informed us that the major industry here is Healthcare. 17 universities call this city home. However, Terry Sprankle associates Nashville with American Pickers. So our second hop-off was at Antique Archaeology. Here is the true example of how one man's junk is another man's treasure. Terry was only too happy to scour the place for hidden gems, although he was disappointed that it was smaller than it seemed on television - another allusion shattered!

The evening saw us venture out to the mecca of Country Music - the Grand Ole Opry. Even though I am not a Country Music fan, how could you come to Nashville and not see a show there? And I am glad we did. I knew none of the names on the program except one and at the beginning of this live radio broadcast they announced that Mark Chesnutt had travel problems and would not be performing. Oh well. I found myself fully engaged with the personalities and the music - a great experience. I may even download some Country to my I-pod.---and that would be a first.

Cars, a President and B. B. KIng's

What a diverse set of attractions filled our day on Thursday. We had some plans to stop along the way to Nashville from Louisville. Besides being a train enthusiast, Terry also is a big car fan. So, of course, we had to stop by the National Corvette Museum - even though Terry didn't care much for the car after the 1962 model. But, we made it through - without purchasing a classic car. (Thank God!) Terry has the ability to identify almost any car by year, make, and model. Me - I'm lucky to get the color right. We capped the visit off with a lunch at the Corvette Cafe, modeled on a luncheonette from the 50's. Very neat and the food was even good!

The slave Alfred's cabin

The Hermitage

The next stop was to The Hermitage, the home of Andrew Jackson, our seventh president. Coming from a childhood of a great deal of loss, it was remarkable that he achieved what he did. His father died during his birth. By the age of fourteen he had lost his mother and brothers. He became a man of contradictions - championing democracy for white men, but unwilling to include women, blacks or Native Americans. His heroic success in battle in the War of 1812 led to his eventual election as president. We toured the mansion and strolled the grounds, viewing this step back in time and the evidence of a life that included Jackson's privilege and the lot of the enslaved people who worked under his rule. Our visit ended with a siren going off and all having to evacuate. Terry had stepped inside and I was hoping that he hadn't decided to take a souvenir. Terry emerged without anything unusual and the all-clear was given. We were all free to go. 

As we entered the city of Nashville proper, I had the sense that geographically this was one very large city. The downtown area is compact, but the city extends way beyond that. Navigating rush hour traffic to reach our hotel reminded me of something that would rival the 5:00 p.m. trip out of any of our cities up north. That was a surprise. 

The hotel staff was helpful and  friendly - good old Southern hospitality at its best. After settling in, we followed a recommendation from the gracious lady who checked us in and headed to B. B. King's for dinner and entertainment. She must have known that we were party people - of course, our party tends to end between 9:00 and 10:00 (Well, at least it's p.m.) We walked the route to get to the club, getting our first introduction to Broadway - a street filled with people, music and the aroma of the offerings of the clubs and restaurants. We enjoyed a good meal and a fantastic performance by the group, B.B. King's All-Stars. I even got the big guy up to dance a slow one and fought the urge to join some other ladies when they played some fast ones. Nice way to begin our Nashville experience.